Archive for May, 2011

Final Drive Leak

So I once I got the bike put back together and had a chance to ride it around, I noticed I had a slight leak from my final drive. Of course. So I ordered a new final drive seal and the paper gasket that goes with it. (parts no. 33123004343 and 33112311097 respectively) and awaited their arrival.

The teardown is not all that bad. The scariest part is removing the brake shoes. You basically just peel them down like a bear trap. Then you can begin removing all the bolts that hold the housing plate on. Additionally you’ll have to remove the brake actuator shaft. This comes off fairly easy AND may, in fact, be the source of the leak. (it wasn’t in my case) There are a few little rubber o-rings on this shaft. They can wear out or even move a bit and cause fluid to leak. Mine looked good so I proceeded.

Now once this is all done, don’t expect it to just come apart. It’s on there with a death grip of doom. But. There are hacks. There are some little screw holes there that fit a size *mumble mumble* screw with a fine thread. (I can’t remember what size this is.. I just have a bunch laying around). This will all you to split the final drive with ease. Just turn the screws.

This should leave you with a few parts and a small mess.

I cleaned up that plate with the gasket in it. Which had some gnarly spots on it where I’m sure the gear oil was slipping out.

Now at this point the easiest way to get the old seal out and the new one in (because it is a snug fit) is to turn the plate into a baked potato and throw it in the oven for a little bit. You could also use a torch, but you will want to be careful you get even heat. Oven seemed like a great way to do it with the least amount of effort… It may also impress your female counterparts that you know how to actually use an oven (didn’t work with mine).

Now as far as getting the new gasket in… I’m leaving this up to you. You’re supposed to use a special tool or something to press it in. This ensures it goes in the correct depth and perfectly even all without damaging the gasket. I do not have a press. I improvised. I’d just rather not be responsible for ruining your gasket with poor advice. But it should look something like this…..

Now the last major step before we start bolting this thing up… When you put everything back together, the splines on the output shaft are going to bite through your freshly installed seal. You’ll need to protect the seal as you slide the cover plate onto the output shaft. I used a coke can. Just made a little sleeve and slid it on.. then pulled the can sleeve out. Voila!

Now just bolt it all back up and hopefully the leaks will be no more. For me, it was a big success.

Wednesday, May 18th, 2011 BMW Cafe Racer No Comments

Custom Tail Light

I poured over the tail light for some time. I was originally thinking I might flush in a small round light. But the more I thought about it, the more I felt like I was just not doing the rest of the bike justice that way. So I thought maybe I could do a LED strip. Flush mounted. Sexy right?

I had my painter measure and drill the holes during the painting process. In the end I kinda wish I would have done it myself. But never mind that. Here are the holes.

Then I used a hot glue gun to attach the LED strip. These go for less than 10 bucks on eBay, and are completely baller.

Finally all wired up.

Now I didn’t take a picture of this, but wish I had… but a problem that you get when you attempt this sort of operation is, you only get one setting with a LED strip. Bright. This is great as a tail light. But no good to us for a tail light + brake light. So I figured I could use a resistor to dim the light and then bypass the resistor for the brake switch. I used a 1k ohm resistor from Radio Shack. They are super cheap. And it works great. Check those out here..

This is a quick diagram.

And here’s the finished product.

Sexy, yeah? Told you….

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Tuesday, May 3rd, 2011 BMW Cafe Racer No Comments

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